The engine control module detected repeated misfires specifically in cylinder 8.
If the check-engine light is flashing, stop driving immediately — active misfires are destroying the catalytic converter in real time. A solid light is less urgent but should be diagnosed within days.
Reviewed by ratchit Automotive Solutions for clarity and inspection-first safety framing. Not a substitute for professional diagnosis.
Use this guide to decide what to inspect first, what it may cost, and when to move from DIY checks to professional diagnosis.
P0308 points to a misfire condition, not a guaranteed failed coil or plug. Isolate the failing cylinder before buying parts.
Can you keep driving?
Best first DIY check
Don't replace this first
When to seek a shop
Recommended next action
Inspection cost
$0–$25 DIY scanner
DIY parts cost
$5–$130
Inspect first before replacing parts.
If the vehicle is unsafe to drive, stop driving and seek professional help.
Shop diagnostic cost
$80–$150 (typical shop diagnostic fee)
Shop repair cost
$60–$550
Diagnostic uncertainty: This code points to a system or condition, not a guaranteed failed part. Inspect before replacing.
Cost variation: Costs vary by vehicle, location, part quality, labor rate, and the confirmed root cause.
These checks are cheap, fast, and rule out the most common causes before spending money on parts.
Save this issue to My Garage, track what you inspect, and build service history for this vehicle.
V-IQ readiness preview: High impact — resolving and tracking this issue may noticeably improve your V-IQ readiness. Tracking active codes and resolutions builds a service history we use to estimate V-IQ readiness over time.
What this usually means:P0308 narrows the misfire to a specific cylinder, but the cause still needs to be confirmed before replacing parts. Misfire codes do not automatically mean spark plugs or coils are bad — air/fuel, vacuum, fuel delivery, and mechanical issues can all trigger the same code.
Common mistake: Many drivers replace all the spark plugs and coils first. That sometimes fixes it, but if the real cause is a vacuum leak, an injector problem, or low compression, the misfire returns and the parts money is wasted.
Confirming the cylinder and the system (ignition vs. air/fuel vs. mechanical) before buying parts usually keeps the repair in the $20–$200 range instead of replacing a full ignition set.
Safety threshold: If the check-engine light is flashing, stop driving as soon as it is safe — continued driving in this state can damage the catalytic converter.
AI-assisted guidance reviewed against ratchit's inspection-first safety rules. Codes are clues, not confirmed diagnoses — always verify before replacing parts.
P0308 means the engine control module has isolated a repeating misfire to cylinder 8. Cylinder 8 only exists on eight-cylinder engines, and firing order, coil layout, and fueling strategy vary between manufacturers — so instead of prescribing a fixed replacement sequence, the useful angle here is fuel-side confirmation. Ignition (plug and coil) gets almost all of the attention on misfire codes because those parts are cheap and easy to swap, but a leaking, dribbling, or slow-opening injector on cylinder 8 will pass a resistance check and still cause the same code. If a plug read and coil swap both come back clean on P0308, the next test is an injector balance or drop test: with the engine running at idle, disable each injector one cylinder at a time and watch RPM drop. A cylinder whose disabled injector produces little or no RPM drop is the misfiring cylinder. Only after ignition and fuel isolation should compression or leakdown testing be sequenced, because those are the most invasive and time-consuming checks. Note: some manufacturer service bulletins address injector supersessions, revised control strategies, or software updates on specific year/make/model vehicles — worth a search before parts replacement.
Steps ordered by urgency — tackle Now items first.
Fixes listed in order of likelihood and cost-efficiency.
Run a free maintenance scan to see what else needs attention based on your year, make, model, mileage, and climate.
These recommendations appear because this issue commonly requires inspection in this system area. ratchit does not recommend replacing parts until the likely cause is confirmed.
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Ranges vary by vehicle, region, and shop. Use as a ballpark — always get a quote.
DIY estimate
$5 – $25
Shop estimate
$60 – $200
DIY estimate
$25 – $80
Shop estimate
$120 – $350
DIY estimate
$40 – $130
Shop estimate
$200 – $550
Cost data is estimated and may not reflect your specific vehicle or location.
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