The engine control module detected repeated misfires specifically in cylinder 2.
A flashing check-engine light on P0302 means cylinder 2 is actively misfiring and raw fuel is reaching the catalytic converter — reduce driving and inspect promptly. Stop driving if you also feel severe shaking, smell fuel, notice overheating, or lose power. A steady light with only mild roughness usually allows cautious short-distance driving to a safe location for inspection, but P0302 should still be diagnosed within days.
Reviewed by ratchit Automotive Solutions for clarity and inspection-first safety framing. Not a substitute for professional diagnosis.
Use this guide to decide what to inspect first, what it may cost, and when to move from DIY checks to professional diagnosis.
P0302 points to a misfire condition, not a guaranteed failed coil or plug. Isolate the failing cylinder before buying parts.
Can you keep driving?
Best first DIY check
Don't replace this first
When to seek a shop
Recommended next action
Inspection cost
$0–$25 DIY scanner
DIY parts cost
$5–$120
Inspect first before replacing parts.
If the vehicle is unsafe to drive, stop driving and seek professional help.
Shop diagnostic cost
$80–$150 (typical shop diagnostic fee)
Shop repair cost
$40–$500
Diagnostic uncertainty: This code points to a system or condition, not a guaranteed failed part. Inspect before replacing.
Cost variation: Costs vary by vehicle, location, part quality, labor rate, and the confirmed root cause.
These checks are cheap, fast, and rule out the most common causes before spending money on parts.
Save this issue to My Garage, track what you inspect, and build service history for this vehicle.
V-IQ readiness preview: High impact — resolving and tracking this issue may noticeably improve your V-IQ readiness. Tracking active codes and resolutions builds a service history we use to estimate V-IQ readiness over time.
What this usually means:P0302 narrows the misfire to a specific cylinder, but the cause still needs to be confirmed before replacing parts. Misfire codes do not automatically mean spark plugs or coils are bad — air/fuel, vacuum, fuel delivery, and mechanical issues can all trigger the same code.
Common mistake: Many drivers replace all the spark plugs and coils first. That sometimes fixes it, but if the real cause is a vacuum leak, an injector problem, or low compression, the misfire returns and the parts money is wasted.
Confirming the cylinder and the system (ignition vs. air/fuel vs. mechanical) before buying parts usually keeps the repair in the $20–$200 range instead of replacing a full ignition set.
Safety threshold: If the check-engine light is flashing, stop driving as soon as it is safe — continued driving in this state can damage the catalytic converter.
AI-assisted guidance reviewed against ratchit's inspection-first safety rules. Codes are clues, not confirmed diagnoses — always verify before replacing parts.
P0302 means the ECM has counted enough missed power strokes on cylinder 2 to flag it individually, rather than the random-cylinder pattern that would set P0300. Because the fault is isolated to one cylinder, the diagnostic path is narrower than a random misfire: the cause lives in whatever supplies spark, fuel, compression, or air to cylinder 2 specifically. That can be a worn or fouled spark plug, a weakening ignition coil, a partially clogged or leaking injector, a cracked intake boot or vacuum leak feeding that runner, damaged wiring or a corroded connector at the coil or injector, or low compression from a burnt valve, worn ring, or head gasket seepage. A coil or plug is a common outcome, but not a guaranteed one — swapping parts before confirming the fault often just moves the misfire to another cylinder or leaves it in place. The goal on P0302 is to prove which subsystem is failing on cylinder 2 before spending money, because unresolved misfires dump raw fuel into the exhaust and can damage the catalytic converter.
Steps ordered by urgency — tackle Now items first.
Fixes listed in order of likelihood and cost-efficiency.
Run a free maintenance scan to see what else needs attention based on your year, make, model, mileage, and climate.
These recommendations appear because this issue commonly requires inspection in this system area. ratchit does not recommend replacing parts until the likely cause is confirmed.
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Ranges vary by vehicle, region, and shop. Use as a ballpark — always get a quote.
DIY estimate
$5 – $15
Shop estimate
$40 – $100
DIY estimate
$25 – $70
Shop estimate
$100 – $300
DIY estimate
$40 – $120
Shop estimate
$200 – $500
Cost data is estimated and may not reflect your specific vehicle or location.
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