The engine control module detected repeated misfires specifically in cylinder 4.
A flashing check-engine light on P0304 means cylinder 4 is actively misfiring — reduce driving and inspect promptly to protect the catalytic converter. Stop driving if you feel severe shaking, smell fuel, see temperatures climbing, or lose power under acceleration. A steady light with only mild roughness usually allows cautious short-distance driving to a safe place for inspection, but P0304 should still be diagnosed within days.
Reviewed by ratchit Automotive Solutions for clarity and inspection-first safety framing. Not a substitute for professional diagnosis.
Use this guide to decide what to inspect first, what it may cost, and when to move from DIY checks to professional diagnosis.
P0304 points to a misfire condition, not a guaranteed failed coil or plug. Isolate the failing cylinder before buying parts.
Can you keep driving?
Best first DIY check
Don't replace this first
When to seek a shop
Recommended next action
Inspection cost
$0–$25 DIY scanner
DIY parts cost
$5–$120
Inspect first before replacing parts.
If the vehicle is unsafe to drive, stop driving and seek professional help.
Shop diagnostic cost
$80–$150 (typical shop diagnostic fee)
Shop repair cost
$40–$500
Diagnostic uncertainty: This code points to a system or condition, not a guaranteed failed part. Inspect before replacing.
Cost variation: Costs vary by vehicle, location, part quality, labor rate, and the confirmed root cause.
These checks are cheap, fast, and rule out the most common causes before spending money on parts.
Save this issue to My Garage, track what you inspect, and build service history for this vehicle.
V-IQ readiness preview: High impact — resolving and tracking this issue may noticeably improve your V-IQ readiness. Tracking active codes and resolutions builds a service history we use to estimate V-IQ readiness over time.
What this usually means:P0304 narrows the misfire to a specific cylinder, but the cause still needs to be confirmed before replacing parts. Misfire codes do not automatically mean spark plugs or coils are bad — air/fuel, vacuum, fuel delivery, and mechanical issues can all trigger the same code.
Common mistake: Many drivers replace all the spark plugs and coils first. That sometimes fixes it, but if the real cause is a vacuum leak, an injector problem, or low compression, the misfire returns and the parts money is wasted.
Confirming the cylinder and the system (ignition vs. air/fuel vs. mechanical) before buying parts usually keeps the repair in the $20–$200 range instead of replacing a full ignition set.
Safety threshold: If the check-engine light is flashing, stop driving as soon as it is safe — continued driving in this state can damage the catalytic converter.
AI-assisted guidance reviewed against ratchit's inspection-first safety rules. Codes are clues, not confirmed diagnoses — always verify before replacing parts.
P0304 flags cylinder 4 as the cylinder repeatedly missing power strokes. A useful clue with P0304 is *when* the misfire is most noticeable, because that changes the likely root cause. A misfire that shows up mainly at idle usually points to a vacuum or intake leak, a weak injector at low pulse widths, or a fouled plug. A misfire that appears under load or hard acceleration usually points to a weakening coil, worn plug gap, low fuel pressure, or a compression problem that only reveals itself at higher cylinder pressures. A cold-start misfire that clears as the engine warms up often points to a cracked coil, moisture in a plug well, or an injector that leaks or sticks when cold. There is no universal 'cylinder 4 always fails first' pattern — the correct next step depends on the plug reading, when the misfire occurs, and what other codes are stored. The goal on P0304 is to match the symptom pattern to the right inspection before replacing any parts.
Steps ordered by urgency — tackle Now items first.
Fixes listed in order of likelihood and cost-efficiency.
Run a free maintenance scan to see what else needs attention based on your year, make, model, mileage, and climate.
These recommendations appear because this issue commonly requires inspection in this system area. ratchit does not recommend replacing parts until the likely cause is confirmed.
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Ranges vary by vehicle, region, and shop. Use as a ballpark — always get a quote.
DIY estimate
$5 – $15
Shop estimate
$40 – $100
DIY estimate
$25 – $70
Shop estimate
$100 – $300
DIY estimate
$40 – $120
Shop estimate
$200 – $500
Cost data is estimated and may not reflect your specific vehicle or location.
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